Trust me - I have probably seen it all at one time or another.įor example you have a $30 oxygen probe for your car. Let me preface by stating I have 31 years experience in the instrumentation and controls field with a major electrical generating utility so I absolutely know my way around metering devices, electronics, relays (you would not believe the variety), control theory, etc. Responses are cretainly appreciated however it appears the discussion has been sidetracked off the original issue. Have you parused the diagnostics as found via the spider l-jetronic diagnostics link in my sig block? If not, you'll need to chase why the pumps don't get that quick activation as they should give a pulse, and then come online steady during the start cycle. (doing so with the pumps pulsing will pre-pressurize the rail) If so, what happens if you turn the key on and off a few times, then try to start it? When you turn the key from off to on do you hear the pumps run for 1/2 a second or so? (granted if its bad it can back bleed into the rail, but it'll pull fuel from the return line with it, so no air pockets or the like) Need to check those motor mounts.There are no 'check valves' in the fuel feed system.īoth pumps are more or less straight through vane types (you can't pour stuff through them, but they will pass fluid over time, thus line and rail pressure will go down after X time sitting) and the regulator is about as close as you could get to such, but its on the opposite end of the rail. Just planning on putting her back together today from the broken fan and shroud. Italian metal is by far the major reason though. Galvanic corrison is bad stuff, think the multiple combinations of metals within the typical Alfa coupled with the weak electrical is one reason they are so rust prone. If nothing else to reduce the transient voltage floating around which certainly helps rust these beauties away. I haven't gone through the diagnostic process to find which circuit at this point. I would believe that another ground strap at the motor/tranny would help, maybe not required but help. I'm pretty sure I saw the alternator has already been upgraded to a 65A model. My voltage at the altenator is good, couldn't remember exactly but it might have been up to 14 for all cases with virtually no drop or increase with load added or revs increased. I have obsessively cleaned the ground cable in the trunk. Hard to miss that one in the pics, even with my oil and grease covered undercarraige. If I drive once a week I have rarely had the drain effect get me but sometimes it will sneak up and I do suspect the ground leaking.ĭefinately don't have that braided strap. I have checked the alternator output its a solid 12+ with our without load at idle or with the revs ramped up and checked and cleaned wires etc. I can typically see every addition on the ammeter as I go down the road, when the lights and wipers are both on the ammeter ticks down into the 10 range with every swip of the wipers. My Spider has the typical slow intermittent drain, red lights on the dash under heavy electrical load. I have the radiator out right now and that gave me the opportunity to view the starter area, thought for sure I'd find it there but to no avail. Those are a group of maybe 3 or 4 wires with what looks like factory terminals. The only grounds I see is a group of single small wire grounds coming out the wiring harness and at the left side connected by a small screw on the head close to the FI. I've looked high and low, all around the bell housing, underneath, etc. I have read many times about the infamous braided ground strap on Alfas but for the life of me can not find one on my 88 Graduate! If anyone has a pic and could send or post or very clear instructions on location I'd appreciate it.
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